Samuel

Welcome to another edition of my Friday Tasting Notes, which are now being reposted in an entirely separate blog at beerispeople.blogspot.com. I may decide to stick to posting them just there at some point, but for now I’m doing double duty.

This week, I tasted (read: guzzled with relish) a beer by the Dupont brewing house in Belgium. The beer is the “Avec les Bons Voeux de la Brasserie Dupont”, which means “With the Best Wishes of the Dupont Brewery”. The Dupont website explains that beginning in the 1970s, this beer was produced in small batches annually for a select group of the brewing house’s best clients. Today, it is distributed more widely (although it is still somewhat hard to find).

When this beer was magically transformed into a human, the first thing I noticed about it was it’s jacket. It was wearing a very stylish gray jacket from the 1980s, part suede and part acrylic knit. Kind of like this;

Next, I noticed the shoes. They were very nice boat shoes, leather also. They were certainly casual, but suggested a little bit of a cosmopolitan attitude. Here’s a picture;

These things combined really started to give me an idea of the beer’s personality. As a beer, it was inviting but not overbearing. It is a Belgian Farmhouse ale in style, which suggests a rural and not at all pretentious drink. But it’s also clearly a craft beer, and it is conscious that it’s quality is appreciated far afield of it’s rural roots in the cities and the upper classes. Many things about this beer are suggestive of that same set of contradictions. The aroma, for example, is complex but not overwhelming. It carries suggestions of yeast, citrus, flowers, hops, and even some malt. But each of the scents is balanced against the others and the no part of the smell is in any way overpowering. Or the alcohol content. This is, by any account, a big beer at 9.5% ABV – but it is crisp, refreshing, and the sort of thing I could drink all day.

Let’s talk more about the Beer as a person. He drives a very sensible, very European car. Therefore, I picked a Peugeot. Also, the model year is sometime in the late 70s, early 80s. I’m not sure why it is that so many of the characteristics of this beer person are from that era, but they are. The jacket, shoes, and car are all from the same time period. It may be because that was a time when industrialization was giving way to informationalization, and the rural was giving way to the urban even further than it already had. Or maybe I’m having an 80s kick. In any event, that’s what came to me and it’s what I’ve written. Here’s the car;

As I’m thinking more about this guy, I’m realizing that he is pretty guarded. He’s complicated. The flavor has some fruity characteristics, maybe banana or even some peach, but very subtle. And combined with some sourness, some bitterness, and even a little sweetness. It’s thick, and hard to understand. But it’s still friendly. This guy doesn’t want anyone to get too close to him. In that sense, he’s not a dog person. The level of loyalty that a dog has makes him uncomfortable. He wouldn’t have a pet at all, except that a cat showed up at his house one day and being soft hearted, he fed the poor creature. And, of course, it stayed around. But it’s not a pet so much as a room mate;

I had a hard time thinking of this beer’s favorite album. It’s an unfiltered beer, and there’s a yeasty aroma and flavor to it. It’s primal, and it takes it all in. It’s not the sort of beer to have a clear favorite anything. I thought of Jazz albums, I thought of famous french singers like Jaqcues Brel, Edith Piaf, or Charles Trenet, I thought of albums that mix genre like The Art of Noise’s “The Seduction of Claude Debussy”. The truth is, this beer has a large record collection and all those things and more are in it. But the most valued record, I think, is something both classic and modern; Bob Dylan’s “The Times They Are A Changin’”

The beer’s ideal weather is a fairly simple thing to talk about. It’s certainly a spring beer, and the weather in which it would be most comfortable is a wet but sunny, warm but cool, middling spring day;

Overall, I’d call this a dangerously drinkable beer. I hope that you’re able to find a bottle. The one I found was at the Willamette Street Market of Choice in Eugene. For a 750 ML Bottle, I paid $12 (steeeeep, but worth it!) It was a great beer, and it brightened an otherwise difficult evening.

Thanks for reading, and I’ll see you next week!

Dogfish Head Indian Brown ale’s bottle bills it as “A clean, well-hopped brown ale with aromatic barley, caramelized brown sugar and whole-leaf Liberty & Goldings hops.” Beer Advocate goes on to say that it is;

A cross between a Scotch Ale, an I.P.A., and an American Brown, this beer is well-hopped and malty at the same time. It is brewed with Aromatic barley and caramelized brown sugar.

I found the Indian Brown Ale to be extremely approachable and drinkable, but with no shortage of personality. Like your buddy who is really down to earth except for some harmless conspiracy theories he believes in unquestioningly.

My first impression on pouring was that the beer was a lot darker than I’d imagined. It’s really deep red brown with a very attractive cream colored head of tiny little bubbles that dissipated fairly quickly and didn’t leave any lacing at all on the glass. The aroma was first a hit of alcoholic esters, fruity. Then some roasted notes. I found a little bit of herbal hops on the nose, but far less than I would imagine from a beer that says “well hopped” on the bottle.

The flavor is amazingly complex. The interplay between hop bitterness, alcoholic fruityness and warmth, roasted malt character, and a semisweet caramel backdrop makes this beer very interesting. While there is a lot happening in the flavor, it’s all subtle enough to keep your attention without being annoying or overbearing.

I know I’ve already mentioned it but halfway through the glass I was struck again by the wonderful smell. Caramel, liquor, malt, toasted roastedness. Really well balanced.

The mouthfeel is clean and dry, but big – bubbly and round. The beer fills the mouth and tickles the tongue. Hops stay on the pallate and the bitterness becomes very clear at the finish as the caramel dissipates. A wonderful roasted flavor as well, toasty.

I’d like more hops on the nose, maybe some dry hopping would benefit this beer. It’s a little higher alcohol content than the style calls for, which is okay by me but the hops don’t balance the bitterness as I would expect from a beer with “Indian” in the name. That said, this is a darned tasty beer and, in true Dogfish Head style it kept me interested throughout.

The last thing I want to do is something new. I’ve been toying with anthropomorphic reviews from the beginning with my “what shoes” question. This time, and probably continuing in the future, I’ve come up with a whole panel of anthropomorphic questions. If this beer were to come to life, what kind of person would it be?

It would drive a 1980s Mercedes Bio-diesel conversion with a very old ski rack on the roof.

For shoes it would wear those kind of light mens’ leather work shoes that slip on with bits of elastic. Like these.

It’s favorite album would be REM, Out of Time

For a pet it would keep an Old English Sheepdog

It’s ideal weather would be 45-50 degrees, light rain, some misty fog.

My experience of this phenomenal beer began with the bottle. The graphic design of the label is simple, elegant, and speaks volumes about what lies underneath. As I’ve undertaken this beer reviewing project, I’ve begun to recognize that presentation begins with a good looking bottle, and so I appreciate the effort that went into crafting this one. The top of the bottle is dipped in black sealing wax, much like the red wax you’d find sealing a bottle of Maker’s Mark bourbon. It’s beautiful, and only slightly difficult to get through in order to reach the beer beneath.

The Abyss is an Imperial Stout by Deschutes Brewery. It is part of their reserve series, and I had a bottle from the 2008 vintage. It is labeled as 1% ABV, and its bottle claims that it is brewed with licorice and molasses, and that a third of the batch is aged in Oak and Oak Bourbon casks. The 22 Oz bottle I bought was at Sundance Market in Eugene, and I paid just under $10 for it.

Pouring this beer, I was struck immediately by its richness. It pours a deep brown black, so dark that it seems to absorb light. It’s thick, and the texture of the beer as it clung to the glass while I poured it led me to expect a sweet beer. The head with lustrous, and coffee with cream colored. It left beautiful brown lacing down the sides of the glass, not too thick but nonetheless pronounced.

The beer in the glass allowed no light to pass through. It was, indeed, a dark @$$ beer.

The aroma is complex, very alluring, seductive. If the aroma were a person, it would wear three inch black patent leather pumps, nothing ostentatious, but certainly elegant and a touch cocksure. The aroma begins with roasted malt as the first and dominating characteristic, giving way to molasses, bourbon, and maybe a hint of chocolate or coffee. The licorice advertised on the bottle is not at all evident in the smell of the beer.

The first hit of the flavor is that it’s much, much drier than I expected. From the look of the beer as it poured, I expected a cloying, sweet beer. I was surprised to find the fermentation to be nearly complete, and without a lot of esters or other strong reminders of a high temperature fermentation. It’s very clean. After getting over the initial shock, I find the flavor a bit astringent, and very warm. The 11% ABV is certainly apparent all the way into the stomach. This beer would be really comforting on a snowy day. The flavor is a little bitter – all from the roasted grain and the licorice root, no hop character I can perceive. The astringency seems to come from a combination of licorice root, oak barrel, and dark roasted barley. It is by no means overwhelming and is certainly not a liability. The molassas bitters show themselves in the aftertaste.

The mouth-feel is dry, bright, and very warm. It’s remarkably drinkable for an 11% beer: dangerously so. My one criticism is that as the glass progresses, the licorice seems to overtake some of the other flavors and interfere with the complexity. A friend assures me that after aging, this is less of a problem. The only issue I see here is how to exercise the willpower required to posses such a beautiful thing and allow it to age without breaking into it. I was able to finish a 22 of this in an evening, but any more than that would be a remarkable feat for anyone. Certainly not a session beer, but again, at 11% what would you expect? With a wonderfully complex flavor, this is a beer that is comfortable to sip slowly for a long, long time.